Box Designs For Silhouette

Previously:
Tried making coin pouches using a box design
One of these websites had designs for boxes

Found these box designs and their 2D plan/net/forms that are perfect for small Silhouette projects:

You might need the Designer Edition, but it's very easy to convert the line patterns to Silhouette format, even if you do it manually.

Recycling Silhouette Consumables

I found out worn out blades make pretty good letter openers, since you can adjust them to cut only the envelope.

I think mats can be used as those self-adhesive notice boards, but I haven't actually tried yet.

Silhouette Hack 05: Double-sided cutting

One of the problems with the Silhouette is its limited cutting force and depth. 210 grams is among the lower end of cutting machines, meaning the thickest materials it can cut are around 200 gsm cardboard ("cereal box"). Even multiple cuts (I've tried 10 cuts on shrink plastic) don't work. One solution might be to get another blade holder and 30° blades, but before spending 30USD, here's a solution that doesn't need any spending (a small hole puncher helps). The gist of this hack is: if you can cut a material from both sides, you can cut up to twice as thick. The difficulty is in aligning the cuts.

First, you need to mark your mat. I already described a method in my Constellation hack. As to what pattern to mark it with, 4 dots arranged in a rectangle is a good start. A better one is a trapezium/trapezoid, which only has left/right but not up/down symmetry. Remember to keep the digital file of the pattern.

I have marked my mat with 4 dots of paper, arranged in a trapezium.

Next you need to mark your material with the same pattern, on both sides. If your material is transparent, just lay it over the markings on your mat, then mark them with permanent marker, like I did in the picture above.
If it's opaque, you could scratch the markings in with your Silhouette, then punch them out with the small hole puncher (at the most 2 mm diameter holes).

This is the interesting part. First you lay out your design and cut it, as normal:

Now, you have to flip the design in the software, while keeping the markings' positions constant. I think, if your design is within the markings, and you select both design and markings then mirror them all, it should do the trick.

The precision depends a lot on your positioning accuracy. As you can see, my black dots are smaller than the blue markings on the mat. Smaller markings should be more accurate, but it also depends on how consistently you can load the mat.

After cutting both sides

Ta-da! It works! It can be improved by tweaking the method, but this is a viable technique to cut thicker materials.

Silhouette: Wallet Organiser 3

First 2 attempts
Improvements:

• Longer, so it doesn't disappear inside my wallet (it's in a side-loading slot)
• Corrected microSD reader slot size
• Funky needle slot wasn't that useful; switching to plain

The cut pattern on scrap scrapbook paper. This looks like those waterjet/laser cut metal designs out of sheet metal! I cut 7 but only used 4.

The 4 layers stuck to another piece of scrap card. The bottom layer was cut by hand. Future improvements:

• Cut bottom layer with Silhouette
• Cut markings into bottom layer so long arms can align to them and not sway
• Make arms thicker for less sway/easier gluing
• Find way to better align layers (less Tower of Pisa-ing)

Side view showing the thickness

And this is it loaded. I found some white "haze" on the USB drives, probably from the superglue. Maybe wait overnight before using after gluing next time. Oh I combined the SIM card and needle slots into one, because the separators would have been too thin and flimsy anyway, and this lets me store even bigger cards (SD?)

Update 23 Sep 15
Shapeways had free shipping again. I can't design in 3D, but they have a tool that lets you convert 2D plans into 3D, which is great for simple designs like this. So I made this ($6):

It's slightly smaller than a business card. The dots at the bottom are at 1 cm intervals. Looks ok. I should make the base thinner and walls thicker. And maybe add holes in the base to reduce volume. It's already a bit flimsy, though.

Silhouette 60° Blades

I found out the 60° blades aren't always better:

I was cutting copper tape, which is about 1/2" wide. In each of the 2 pictures above, the top tape was cut by my 60° blade, and the bottom with the official Silhouette blade (45°). You can see that the top designs are starting to peel, while the bottom ones are perfect. I thought the finer blade would be better at details. Also - surprisingly, the 60° blade required a higher force to cut.

I suspect the protrusion of the blade was too much, because the backing was cut as well. This might have required a higher force and deeper penetration of the blade, resulting in a long portion of the blade being used to cut. Other theory: maybe this blade holder doesn't rotate as freely.

Silhouette And CB09 Blades

I finally bought the CB09 holder and blades for my Silhouette, for these reasons:

1. Most of all, for the 60° blade (counter-intuitively, 60° is the narrower blade). I hope this lets me cut more materials and finer designs.
2. The blades are less than 1/3 the price of Silhouette's
3. The blades might last longer

The holder came in this nifty plastic container. A bit too big.

It came with 5 blades. The seller was very nice - I asked to mix 3 60° blades and 2 45° and they obliged. The blue and red caps cover the blade, making them easy to handle, and the colour indicates the angle. They also came with 5 springs.

About the holder - I figured out how to use it on my own. The silver knob adjusts the blade protrusion ("thickness"). To install the blade, you remove the coloured cover on the blade, put a spring on the pointy end, unscrew the black cap, put the blade and spring so the blunt end is in the silver part of the holder and the pointy end is sticking out, carefully replace the black cap, threading the pointy end through the hole and tighten. While you're looking at it, wow the hole in the black cap for the blade is really small. It actually looks smaller than the blade.

Yes, it is slightly inconvenient without the "thickness-by-numbers" ratchet, but it's quite easy to test if your protrusion is enough (try to hold the blade and holder in your hand and try and cut the material), and it's ok if it's a bit too much. I don't intend to change my thickness much. Actually, I intend to only use 60° blades in the future, for ease of inventory and remembering settings. As long as they last as long as the original blade, I'll be happy.

My holder was a bit tight in the machine, but I didn't have to sand it.

I tried to improve the blade's plastic container, so the bottom of the CB09 could be suspended, in case there was some blade protruding. Here, the bottom is in contact with the container:

I cut a 3.3 mm wide piece of card with perforations every 3 mm, and folded it into a zig-zag manner. 3.3 mm is slightly longer than the length of the holder below the rim, and 3 mm is about the difference in thickness between the holder and container:

It works pretty well. You have to experiment to find the amount of overlap for the card, though.

No more touching!

Silhouette: Wallet Organiser

So this is my first attempt to "3D print" with my Silhouette by gluing layers together. I'm trying to make a credit card-sized "wallet organiser", to hold my USB drive, some SIM/microSIM/microSD cards, and a SIM eject tool (needle). The good thing about this project is I can use small pieces of scrap card.

First model, stuck together with the common water-based glue for paper. It didn't stick the glossy card too well, probably because it doesn't absorb water. Problems with this design: a bit too big, cannot slide out USB drive (must lift, meaning you have to take the whole organiser out).

Second model: much smaller. This has room for 2 drives: my Toshiba TransMemory-Mini, and a tiny microSD card reader I bought from eBay for $1, including shipping. It's about the same size as this Kingston one on Amazon. People say the Kingston one doesn't last very long, but I'm hoping that's because they keep it with their keys, anyway this one is only $1. I'm intending to use this as my sole USB drive, since it's a) thinner than the TransMemory, b) possibly faster, if I use a class 10 microSD card. TransMemory and SD card reader can be slid out. SD card reader slot was cut too small (I don't know how I made that mistake). Has rooms for 1 microSIM/microSD and 1 normal SIM, which I'm using to hold adapters for now. Has slot for needle, which can also be slid out. Aside: size 22 tapestry needle works fine as a SIM eject tool for iPhones, and it's not too sharp.

I stuck this model together with brush-on superglue, which works great. I don't like the water-based glue because it's not waterproof, but mainly afraid that it might migrate onto my electronics.

Now this model is a bit too short. I really want to make this out of shrink plastic, but I haven't found a way to uniformly shrink it yet.

Silhouette Blade

I think my Silhouette's blade is worn out. Or broken. So the blade lasts about 4 months, longer than the mat. Probably even longer if you only use it to cut paper and card, and not screen protectors, shrink plastic and heavy card like me. I think this blade can still be used to score and cut large, simple designs (no sharp corners).

Silhouette Studio 3

Silhouette has released version 3 of Silhouette Studio, and I'm excited about the new features! I wonder if you can still freely download it without proving you have a machine, though.

Before You Upgrade

A list of things to do / good practices before you upgrade. Also applies to other software.

• Backup your library. At the same time, note the contents. At least the total number of files. After upgrading, make sure all the files are there.
• Deactivate your Designer Edition (if you have it) - your DE code can only be used a certain number of times. If your upgrade fails or you lose your DE status, you may lose one of those times forever. Also applies to iTunes (only 5 devices can be registered to one Apple account, but at least you can reset all those 5 devices once a year) and the Kindle store (looks like you can deregister devices without having that device, so it may not matter if your device is lost/corrupted)
• BACKUP YOUR CUT SETTINGS! Looks like they're not transferred! (Update: Oops, looks like they're still there, but at the bottom now) Fortunately I upgraded a less used copy first. This is a good time to remind everyone not to rely on Studio saving your cut settings, because you can't tell whether it's saving or not. Put your cut settings into the name of your profile, e.g. "Computer paper 8-7-1", meaning speed 8, thickness 7, depth 1.

Features

That I like, not the whole list

• Cut by line color - this removes the need for my hack
• Draw polygons (but still no stars, though)
• Control overcuts (extend the cut lines of polygons, so a square becomes #)
• Library backup!
• Layers support!

I just wish they'd add keyboard shortcuts.

Wow, looking at the comments, looks like a lot of people can't figure out the cut by line colour feature. Sure, there are some changes, like Office 2007 and the Ribbon, but I'd like to think crafters are an adaptable, quick-learning lot.

Silhouette Hack 06: QR codes

How can you draw QR codes with a Silhouette? (not create QR codes, assuming you've already got the code)

First, you want to turn on the grid and size the QR code to the grid (hint: the small, solid black squares at the corners are 3x3). It might be easier to set the QR code picture to be slightly transparent - like in the picture below, choose the fill color tool (first icon that looks like a bucket), advanced options at the bottom, then change the transparency. Then, turn on snap to grid and draw rectangles over the black parts of the code. You can also trace the code, but the results won't be as good, especially if you're trying to make the code as small as possible.

Once you've finished, drag the code picture away, select all the rectangles and set their fill to black, which is what I've done in the above picture. The left is the original code. The right is the rectangles filled with black.

Like with writing text, I first tried a cross fill (right drawing), but that didn't work. So I used Internal Offsets. You'll have to play with the offset, depending on the width of your pen and the size of your QR code. At first, my code was too small (top 2 incomplete codes; 2 cm is too small), so I enlarged it, and the bottom code works!

Coin Pouches

My wallet doesn't have a place to hold coins, so I searched for a coin pouch. Eventually, I got this from Amazon:

It's made from PVC so it's quite flexible. You squeeze it to open and it closes when you let go. It sounds a bit insecure, but it's quite thick, so I don't have any problems with coins dropping out. Inside, it has a logo saying "Quikoin".
Likes

• Can open with one hand
• Large area to display coins; makes finding coins faster
• Secure
• Fits beside my wallet in my pocket
• Capacity is just right

Dislikes

• I don't really like PVC as a material, and this must have lots of plasticiser so it may not be healthy.
• Sometimes, it doesn't open and bends inwards instead.

But before this, I tried making it out of InstaMorph:

This didn't work, because InstaMorph is too stiff. If you make it thin enough to flex, I think it won't be strong enough.

Anyway, here's the making process:

It's easiest to make a tube, slit it, then weld the ends shut.

I also spent a while trying to cut one out of paper, but these wouldn't even last a week, and they don't open up:

I might have better luck with a design that opens up and slides coins onto the lid, like this product: http://www.amazon.com/TACCO-Italian-Leather-Coin-Purse/dp/B000EN4EUK/ref=pd_sbs_shoe_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KDPZDE3RC5968JSC0HP
After I stopped trying to make one with my Silhouette, I got an idea for a design like the top, Lucky Line one. I might try that if I start again. Or I could even 3D print one, with rigid facets connected by flexible hinges, like this bag:

Silhouette Hack 04: Shrink plastic

The Silhouette is one of the weaker craft cutters, so it can only cut thin sheets of plastic. However, I found this Instructable that introduced a new material that I hadn't heard of before: http://www.instructables.com/id/manufacture-custom-gears-with-a-cricut-and-shrink-/ ok, it's not really a new material, it's stretched polystyrene that shrinks back to its original dimensions when heated. One common brand is Shrinky Dinks. Supposedly, in its stretched form, it's thin enough to cut with the Silhouette.

I found that Art Friend sold individual sheets of this brand called "Shrink Me". Can't find it online, though. Now, different brands have different shrink rates and temperatures. This is supposed to shrink 3x.

If the dimensions shrink by 3x in 2 directions, that's 1/9 the area, so the thickness should increase by 9x.

Ok the main problem with this material is that it can't be cut with the Silhouette, regardless of force or passes. If your designs are simple, you can partially cut them, then finish with a knife, which is what I did here.

I tried to make a planetary gear set from another Instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Laser-Cut-Planetary-Gear/, which looked more interesting than individual gears.

So I spent maybe 1 hour cutting them out. The problem is I don't have an oven to shrink the plastic, so I used a hair straightener, which didn't work so well.

They tend to warp, especially if your heat isn't uniform or it's too hot.

So, sadly, this project didn't work. Another problem with this material is that it's very brittle after it's shrunk.

Heat Sources
They recommend using a kitchen oven or toaster oven, but I didn't want to put plastic in my oven. Another source is a hot-air gun (not hairdryer), which I don't have but could be useful for shrink plastic, heat-shrink tubing and embossing powder. Shrink plastic needs about 140°C to shrink so hot water won't work. I had a hair straightener so I tried it, because it's portable and flat. However I think it runs about 200°C, which is too hot. The plastic will warp if it's too hot, especially since my hair straightener is only about 2 cm wide. I'm thinking of getting a better hair straightener, one with temperature control, to use with this and heat-shrink tubing. I believe with temperature control from 120-200°C, it'll work.

I tried another type of plastic from Amazon: Graphix shrink film http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KNPKIE/ This material is supposed to shrink by 2x. It can't properly be cut by the Silhouette either, but you can force the pieces out and they leave a layer behind:

I'm also having trouble getting this to shrink uniformly:

So, before I can use this type of material, I have to:

1. Find a way to cut it (already got one)
2. Find a good way to shrink it

Update 22 Apr 14
I bought a hot air gun, because I thought, instead of spending $50 on something that's not designed to do this and only might work (hair straightener), I might as well spend $50 on something that's designed to do this, and I can also use it for other things. It works beautifully. Better than a toaster oven would, I think:

• Fast - finishes shrinking in about 30 seconds
• No plastics in your oven
• Very little curling

It's a 300W craft model that claims to run at 350°C. I think the DIY models might be a bit too powerful.

Now I have a chance to compare the 2 plastics. I made some dots 10 mm apart, and after shrinking they were about 4 mm apart. Remember, the clear Shrink Me plastic is supposed to shrink 3x and the white Graphix one is supposed to shrink by 2x, but they both actually shrink by the same amount. Graphix sheet thickens from 0.25 to 1.8 mm in the process.
end 

Silhouette Hack 03: Constellation mat mod

This is a mod to let you position things on your mat with much greater accuracy, especially if you're using a non-Silhouette mat. How it works is you create a file with some markings, and make a corresponding set of markings on the mat. This way, you can use the markings as reference points.

The first thing to do is to load the mat, then take a permanent marker and mark the edges of the mat on both sides:

Don't worry about using a permanent marker, it erases easily with alcohol, or a pencil eraser. Don't use acetone, though. I like the Pilot Twin Marker for its extra fine point. In fact, even with the Silhouette mat, I'd take a while to find the correct loading position and do this step, just because it's easier to see than the Silhouette's markings. This lets you load the mat consistently each time.

Next, create a file with several reference points. I thought they looked like stars, that's why I called this mod the "constellation".

Now to transfer these markings onto the mat. I've thought of 2 ways: 1 less permanent and 1 more permanent.

At first, I wasn't sure if this would work, so I didn't want to make it permanent. How to do this: choose a thin type of paper for the markings.

1. Ctrl + A to select all the markings, then choose do not cut.
2. Select the first marking and choose cut.
3. Load the paper on the mat in the general vicinity of that marking and cut it.
4. Leave the marking on the mat.
5. Repeat for all markings.

If you've done this correctly, you should end up with all the markings as paper markings on your mat:

 

Problems with this method: the paper markings may interfere with cuts, especially sensitive materials. The paper markings can move. The paper markings will eventually get cut up and fall apart. If you like this mod, you can make the markings permanent.

To make this permanent, this time cut all the markings without loading any paper on your mat, using a light force. This cuts the markings directly onto your mat. Then, take your permanent marker (again, Pilot Twin Marker) and trace the cuttings so that instead of paper marks, you have permanent ink. I've already done this with the circle in the picture above (below the "u" in "Cricut").

Now you're done! Important notes:

• Remember to set all the markings in the Silhouette file to no cut after transferring them to your mat.
• Make backups of your constellation file.
• To use this mod, open your constellation file and transfer your designs to it, using the markings as reference. DO NOT SAVE. Save as a new file if necessary.

No more being limited to the top-left corner of the mat!

Silhouette: Cleaning The Blade

Ok this is a very important and common procedure - everyone will have to do it at least once in the life of their blade - yet it's very strangely not discussed and Silhouette does a poor job of telling you how to do it.

There's a video online telling you to ratchet the blade to 1, then 0, 10, 9... then it'll get very hard to turn and to continue to force it. It might work (didn't work for me), but it's overkill and disassembles the entire blade. There's a high risk of damaging your blade.

The easier way is to ratchet to 1, then 0, then maybe 10. The only point of this is to hide the blade to protect yourself. Next, the white part unscrews into 2 sections:

I haven't managed to do this without pliers yet. Inside, it looks like this:

Yeah, clean that out. I like to use something soft like the corner of a piece of paper or card, in case I damage the blade. So, don't force your blade into unnatural positions, and clean it out once in a while.