13 April, 2014

Silhouette: Wallet Organiser

So this is my first attempt to "3D print" with my Silhouette by gluing layers together. I'm trying to make a credit card-sized "wallet organiser", to hold my USB drive, some SIM/microSIM/microSD cards, and a SIM eject tool (needle). The good thing about this project is I can use small pieces of scrap card.
First model, stuck together with the common water-based glue for paper. It didn't stick the glossy card too well, probably because it doesn't absorb water. Problems with this design: a bit too big, cannot slide out USB drive (must lift, meaning you have to take the whole organiser out).

Second model: much smaller. This has room for 2 drives: my Toshiba TransMemory-Mini, and a tiny microSD card reader I bought from eBay for $1, including shipping. It's about the same size as this Kingston one on Amazon. People say the Kingston one doesn't last very long, but I'm hoping that's because they keep it with their keys, anyway this one is only $1. I'm intending to use this as my sole USB drive, since it's a) thinner than the TransMemory, b) possibly faster, if I use a class 10 microSD card. TransMemory and SD card reader can be slid out. SD card reader slot was cut too small (I don't know how I made that mistake). Has rooms for 1 microSIM/microSD and 1 normal SIM, which I'm using to hold adapters for now. Has slot for needle, which can also be slid out. Aside: size 22 tapestry needle works fine as a SIM eject tool for iPhones, and it's not too sharp.

I stuck this model together with brush-on superglue, which works great. I don't like the water-based glue because it's not waterproof, but mainly afraid that it might migrate onto my electronics.

Now this model is a bit too short. I really want to make this out of shrink plastic, but I haven't found a way to uniformly shrink it yet.

12 April, 2014

Silhouette Blade

I think my Silhouette's blade is worn out. Or broken. So the blade lasts about 4 months, longer than the mat. Probably even longer if you only use it to cut paper and card, and not screen protectors, shrink plastic and heavy card like me. I think this blade can still be used to score and cut large, simple designs (no sharp corners).

Case-Mate Pop! ID iPhone 5

After considering several card holding cases for the iPhone 5, I finally got the Case-Mate Pop! ID. Looking at the number of views for my previous post, it looks like there are many people also searching for an iPhone 5 card holding case. I chose this because:
  • Mainly, it was cheaply and quickly available here
  • Second biggest reason: I was hesitant to buy this because I thought it would be much cheaper on eBay. However, I searched, and only cases similar to their simpler Barely There ID were available. I had previously bought one for my iPhone 4.
  • By cheap, I mean I got the Pop! ID at S$38, including delivery, before 10% discount. Compared to the other cases I was looking at, that's probably the cheapest. I know the OtterBox Commuter Wallet costs >S$60. Compared to other sellers: the cheapest on Amazon is around USD$17, which works out to about the same price, and that's with maybe 2 weeks' wait.
  • By quick, I was going to buy CM4's Q case from Amazon, which would ship overseas for free, but it would take at least a month for me to amass USD$125 of things to buy.
  • It met all my requirements, particularly the covered buttons and exposed Lightning and headphone ports.

It came in a plain box that doesn't even mention the case's name. I've always gotten the impression that Case-Mate is a cheaper brand. Maybe it's because their Barely There case is so similar to those on eBay. An interesting thing about the packaging - the silver top part that says CASE.MATE seems to be made of aluminium. It feels cold to the touch and the edges are a bit sharp. It seems stuck to the plastic, though, so I'm not sure what to do with it.

At least the back has the name of the case.

I'm glad to say the case seems to have pretty good build quality. It feels sturdy and the seams look ok. The design on the inside of the case, which normally won't be seen, shows attention to detail. The case is rigid, but it's still easy to insert your phone. Very easy, compared to my 3D-printed case. This case is made of 2 different plastics, white and grey in this case. I think the white is polycarbonate, and the grey feels a bit stiff for silicone, so I'm guessing it's TPU is pretty high friction, so maybe it's some kind of rubber. It's quite interesting how they inject 2 plastics at the same time and get them to bond (co-injection moulding).

This case holds the cards by squeezing them at the sides. The distribution of the 2 plastics is more complicated than most cases, which simply use the rigid plastic for the back and rubbery plastic for the edges. Here you can see the sides also have some white rigid plastic, making the case stronger. Reviews on Amazon say the rubbery parts tend to peel off, so that's something to watch out for.

One thing I don't like about this case is the cards can actually touch the phone. Not a problem if you're only putting in credit cards, since they're softer than any part of the phone. And besides, I have a back protector on my phone anyway. You just have to avoid putting any metal cards in there. Another thing is, the card slot fits cards very closely. No issues if you're just using credit cards, but I was keeping my cards in a card protector (those plastic sleeves for trading cards), which wouldn't fit, so I had to put my bare cards inside. My 3D-printed case's slot was oversized, so everything could easily fit. The white tab in the picture above is good design. If not for it, if you inserted your card all the way, you wouldn't be able to take it out again. (Just imagine the black card above would lay flush with the tab, and there's no way to lift it above the tab to eject)

It easily fits my ports cover, and the entire bottom cutout is surrounded by the more rigid plastic, so it should hold its shape, compared to my Griffin Reveal Etch Graphite. However, other users say the thin top part tends to break, so I'm trying not to stress it and thinking of ways to reinforce it.

The back has a glossy surface, which will inevitably scratch. It came with a soft protective film. I guess you could leave it on, but it prevents you from removing your cards. The bottom has the case's brand in small characters. The ejection slot is long enough to let you have a good grip on your cards.

The buttons are covered! I like how there's a hole in the rigid plastic for the power button, which is only covered with the rubbery plastic. One problem is the silent switch is a bit deep - I can't reach it with my thumbnail, but my other fingers can.

I also like how the rubbery plastic extends almost the entire length on both sides of the phone, so it's easy to grip. It also extends slightly above the display, protecting it when you place the phone face-down. The rubbery parts have too much friction, though, and it does tend to turn your pocket inside-out when you remove your phone, as people have pointed out.

Nobody mentions this online - the case is about 1.4 cm thick. Surprisingly my 3D-printed case is also the same thickness for the most part (1.4 cm), even though it can hold 3 cards while this can only hold 2. But the 3D-printed case is thicker at the base (1.7 cm). This looks sleeker than the 3D-printed case, though.

  • Good shock protection
  • Good grip
  • Screen protection
  • Easy to put on and take off
  • Holds cards securely
  • Covered buttons
  • Large Lightning port slot
  • Minimal bulk
  • Unique design (mixing 2 plastics and not copied by others)

  • Silence switch a bit deep
  • A bit too much friction

Summary: solidly-built case with good protection, convenient card storage and minimal bulk.

11 April, 2014

Data Recovery

My USB flash drive got corrupted and Windows said it wasn't formatted. Fortunately, I had just backed it up to test it with H2testw. At the time, I couldn't find any free data recovery programs. In case this happens in the future, try PhotoRec, which is free and open-source. It only seems to be able to recover the entire drive, not individual files, though.

05 April, 2014

Leatherman PST II

Ok this post is both to commemorate my PST (Pocket Survival Tool) II and note my repair experience.

This is one of the oldest things I have. I bought it around 1999. Apparently the insides of the handles are stamped with the date of manufacture in mmyy format, and mine say 1195 and 0196. That's a long time ago. Maybe shipping was slower in the past millennium? Why are the handles made 2 months apart?
I got it at the recommendation of a friend, who preferred Leatherman products over Swiss army knives. I specifically remember choosing this model because it was the cheapest that had a scissors, that I thought would be useful at that time. It cost about $74 and came in a plastic clamshell package with grey paper.

Mine is so old, it doesn't even say the model. I've carried it to a lot of places, and carried it almost all the time for the past few years. Despite this, it's still in good condition, I suspect because I don't use it that often, or for hard jobs. It's come in useful a lot of times, particularly the pliers, wire cutters, scissors and serrated knife. It may not seem very different, but even the half-serrated knife can cut through manila rope with one stroke, while other knives need sawing. It has the usual set of tools: screwdrivers, can and bottle openers etc. Notably, no saw or corkscrew, but its scissors and diamond file are uncommon, even on knives today. According to Leatherman, it's 10 cm long and weighs 142 g.

Not long after I bought this, the first Wave came out. At the time, the Wave seemed to have everything - including 2 knives, a straight and serrated (the PST II has a single knife that's half straight and half serrated), and a saw. It cost about $125 and came in a cardboard packaging (not the black and yellow box, a brown one). It's funny looking back now because the current Wave is one of their smaller tools, dwarfed by the Super Tool 300, Surge and Charge. Part of the trend of things getting bigger?

Unfortunately, my file recently broke when trying to use it as a lever. Apparently it IS possible to break it with hand strength! Also, other parts break at a force that the pliers can easily withstand! I don't think it's the tool's fault for breaking when doing something it's not designed to do, though. Anyway, I sent it back to Leatherman to try out their warranty, which is supposed to be quite good. It will be quite interesting to see whether they can repair a tool they've long since stopped producing. Postage from Singapore to the U.S. cost S$8.20, has tracking and is supposed to take 5+ working days.

This is what the broken edge looks like. I didn't send the broken file back, because I don't think they can use it, it would make the package weigh more, they might not send it back, and it'll come in useful.

Just in case they can't repair it and I have to get a new one, I've been looking at their current models. As mentioned, they're bigger and heavier than my PST II. Maybe I'm too used to my PST II, but I find all its tools useful and would like a replacement to include them. The most problematic tools are the scissors and diamond file.

I'd also really like a corkscrew and tweezers, but their Juice models don't have locking blades, so they're out.

The Wingman and Sidekick are almost the same, except the Wingman has a scissors while the Sidekick has a saw (even their names mean the same thing). Wingman - no diamond file, 198.4 g. At least the blade is accessible with the tool closed, and it locks. This is their simplest tool with the functionality of their PST II, and it already weighs 40% more.

The next tool is the Wave, which at least has a diamond file, but weighs 241 g. The Charge is similar, weighs slightly less and costs slightly more. The Charge TTi has fancy titanium, but it's really only used for decoration on the handles. So far I'm leaning towards the Wave.

Declining English

English online seems to be on the decline:
  • your you're
  • there their they're
  • would of/could of
  • peeple speling wurds lyk dey sund
  • People who don' t know how to use punctuation . Like this.Or this.

But the point of this post isn't to complain, it's to say maybe things aren't that bad. I've thought of 2 reasons for these trends.
  1. The barrier to going online is decreasing. In the past you needed to know how to dial a phone number and remember a password. Now you pretty much only need to pay a bill. So maybe people's English isn't getting worse, it's just that more people with poor language skills are going online.
  2. Mobile devices. Besides autocorrect being totally wrong, I think they're an explanation for the weird punctuation. On many devices , you need to enter a space to complete a word , which explains sentences like this . Also, more errors committed on mobile keyboards + people who don't proofread.

Changing App/iTunes Stores' Countries

I used to think changing the country of your App Store/iTunes Store was a trivial matter - use up your existing credit, give them a credit card from your new country, that's it. It's not. Apparently, maybe due to accounting or copyrights, the different countries' stores are separate. After changing your country, your purchase history will be blank!

For the App Store, it doesn't seem to matter so much. There are 2 scenarios:
  1. App is available in both countries' stores: People agree that you have to search for the app again, but when you download it, you won't be charged.
  2. App is NOT available in the new country's store: If the app is on your device, you can update it. If it's in your iTunes library, you can transfer it to your device. If not, you can't get that app back.
I guess this means that before changing countries, you should make a list of apps you have, and try and store them in your iTunes library. Ideally you can note which apps won't be available in the destination country's store.

For the iTunes Store, it seems more serious. I don't think you can redownload anything at all. At least music has been DRM-free for the past few years, so you can continue to use it, just don't count on iTunes to restore your purchases. I don't know about books/TV/movies.

I haven't tried any of this, it's just what I've noted from people online.

What I wonder is: if you transfer back to your original country, will you get your purchases back? An alternative is to maintain 2 iTunes accounts, but the problem with this is apparently you can only change iTunes accounts on a device once every 90 days or something. I think I'll stick to the same store for now. Looks like most apps are available in all countries anyway.

Silhouette Studio 3

Silhouette has released version 3 of Silhouette Studio, and I'm excited about the new features! I wonder if you can still freely download it without proving you have a machine, though.

Before You Upgrade

A list of things to do / good practices before you upgrade. Also applies to other software.
  • Backup your library. At the same time, note the contents. At least the total number of files. After upgrading, make sure all the files are there.
  • Deactivate your Designer Edition (if you have it) - your DE code can only be used a certain number of times. If your upgrade fails or you lose your DE status, you may lose one of those times forever. Also applies to iTunes (only 5 devices can be registered to one Apple account, but at least you can reset all those 5 devices once a year) and the Kindle store (looks like you can deregister devices without having that device, so it may not matter if your device is lost/corrupted)
  • BACKUP YOUR CUT SETTINGS! Looks like they're not transferred! Fortunately I upgraded a less used copy first. This is a good time to remind everyone not to rely on Studio saving your cut settings, because you can't tell whether it's saving or not. Put your cut settings into the name of your profile, e.g. "Computer paper 8-7-1", meaning speed 8, thickness 7, depth 1.


That I like, not the whole list
  • Cut by line color - this removes the need for my hack
  • Draw polygons (but still no stars, though)
  • Control overcuts (extend the cut lines of polygons, so a square becomes #)
  • Library backup!
  • Layers support!
I just wish they'd add keyboard shortcuts.

Wow, looking at the comments, looks like a lot of people can't figure out the cut by line colour feature. Sure, there are some changes, like Office 2007 and the Ribbon, but I'd like to think crafters are an adaptable, quick-learning lot.

03 April, 2014

More Missing iPhone Apps

I discovered more missing apps after I replaced my iPhone:
 360 Panorama didn't restore, but its data was still there.

FromToDate didn't restore, and its data was lost. More disturbingly, there doesn't seem to be any way to export/backup/save data from the app, even if you wanted to.

01 April, 2014


Ok I first wrote about this utility in 2 Types Of Kickstarter Projects, but I think it deserves a post of its own. It's a utility to test the true size of drives by filling them with data and reading it back. This is particularly useful for unscrupulous USB flash drives that over report their capacity, which will lead to data loss. It's also useful since it reports write and read speeds, which is what I want to record here.

Sharpen "USD" card
Write: 13.2 MB/s
Read: 17.4 MB/s

Toshiba TransMemory-Mini
Write: 3.50 MB/s
Read: 17.6 MB/s
SanDisk Cruzer Edge
Write: 3.30 MB/s
Read: 20.7 MB/s

2 Types Of Kickstarter Projects

Minimalist Wallets

One of the most common design projects is the minimalist wallet. These wallets typically only carry cards and cash, with each claiming to be the thinnest and lightest. I heard that in the U.S., it's possible to survive with only cards and no cash, which I guess is how these wallets can be so popular. I can't survive without cash, though.

The odd thing is, these wallets are very similar, and very simple - 2 pieces of solid card-shaped material (wood/carbon fiber/steel/aluminium/titanium) and an elastic band. I don't understand how these can be so popular - how are they different from just putting a rubber band around your cards? They're also inconvenient - you have to take out all your cards and cash to search for something. I have a good mind to start my own project selling rubber bands as minimalist wallets.

Key Holders

These seem a bit more useful. I first head of the Keyport, an organiser that holds up to 6 keys and slides them out. You can also substitute tools for the keys, e.g. USB flash drive, torch, bottle opener.
I think this is the best (and best-looking) organiser, but it's also very expensive, and troublesome - $30 for the body, $30 for 6 key blanks, you have to send them photos of your keys for them to send you the right blanks, then you have to go to a locksmith to cut those blanks:

I thought this type of product would be useful, so I looked at the projects on Kickstarter. But they all had their problems.

My first choice was the Keyz, because it's:
  • made of steel, especially the screws
  • got thinner, custom screws
  • got wave washers to keep tension on the keys and prevent loosening
  • size adjusts to accommodate how many keys you have
It's slightly expensive, at $35, but when you read the comments on the Kickstarter page, you'll see it's got lots of problems:
  • poor finish
  • screws breaking! Those custom-made, extra strong screws!
  • feels poor quality, not worth the money
  • USB drive not working (I wasn't going to get one anyway)

Ok so my next choice was the KeySmart (to be honest, Keyz looks a lot like the KeySmart). This was much cheaper - $15 for the normal one, and the titanium one costs only $39! Again, looking at the comments:
  • keys not fitting
  • loosening (a serious problem)
  • major problems with the USB drive
A word about the USB drive - what seems to have happened here was that the makers went with the lowest bidder, who sold them a bunch of deceptive (not defective, the seller intentionally misled them) USB drives that over report their capacity. The drives have maybe 500 MB of storage, but their firmware is hacked to show 16 GB. If you try and copy files over, there won't be any errors, but you won't be able to read them back. This is a serious problem! I've also seen this on drives I got from eBay - a big reason to only buy trusted flash products, if you value your data. I'm writing this because I learned of this free utility: H2testw. Free, small, needs no installation, fills your USB drive (or any drive really) with data and reads it back, testing its true capacity. Very useful! I tested my 4 GB drive I bought from Shenzhen and found out it only has 500 MB of space!

I guess the lesson to learn from this is, although Kickstarter products are new and reviews are rare, always read the comments for honest feedback - especially if you're considering buying the item after the funding period has ended and the item has shipped. A lot of projects that look good on the surface actually turn out quite different, even those with huge fundings (1000%). It looks like the reality is usually not as rosy as the main page paints. Actually, I funded a project that had a reward due in August 2013, and I still haven't got it yet. I'm just glad my PortPilot Pro turned out excellently, relatively speaking.

31 March, 2014

Up And Then Down

A The New Yorker article, by Nick Paumgarten

I first read this article, about someone who got trapped in an elevator (lift) for 41 hours, then I couldn't find it again. I just found it, by remembering the phrase "most over-elevatored building in the world". I was looking for this article again for this citation:
"... elevators (...) are typically borne aloft by six or eight hoist cables, each of which, according to the national elevator-safety code (...), is capable on its own of supporting the full load of the elevator plus twenty-five per cent more weight"
So - at least 6 cables, each of which can hold more than the lift's maximum weight. In addition to these, lifts have brakes. There's really no reason to fear falling lifts. I think all the fatalities from lifts have come from getting caught in the doors and the lift moving, or similar events (barring building collapse or planes crashing into buildings). Some pets have been killed when they were trapped on the opposite side of the doors from their owners, and strangled by their leash.

28 March, 2014

iPhone 5 Replacement

I finally got my iPhone 5 replaced, because of the dust in the camera. I was lucky to get it replaced when I did, because the service centre was stopping iPhone replacements at the end of this month. My "new" iPhone's screen doesn't have a tint around the border either (wanted to post on this, but didn't), so that's 2 problems fixed.

The refurbished iPhone came with protectors on the front and back. Interestingly, the one on the back seemed to have different sections for the aluminium and ceramic areas. The aluminium section seemed stickier.

But the main reason for this post is, I left some things out during backup, so maybe this will remind someone what to backup. Firstly, iPhone backups are lacking. I'm restoring to the exact same model of device - they even force you to use the same version of iOS - yet you can't do a complete backup? MANY apps do not reappear. I'm wondering if I can get Flappy Bird back again.

Something very strange about backups is: some apps don't appear after the restore, but if you download them again from the App Store, their old data returns. Where is this coming from? Are they pulling it off iCloud? Is restore putting their files in my iPhone without the app? What about apps I don't download again, then? Are their files taking up space? I'd think it was iCloud, but one of the apps was a video player with several GB of files, so it can't possibly be from iCloud.

Anyway, here are some apps of concern:
OSnap! I'm currently using this to take a picture of myself every day (keywords: stop motion time lapse onion skin). Didn't appear with restore. When I redownloaded it from the App Store, my pictures appeared.

Linkus Photo Manager Pro Didn't appear with restore, but this was probably my fault as I disabled backups.

VM Player Appeared with restore

AcePlayer Didn't appear with restore, but when I redownloaded it, my files reappeared. Where did they come from?

Tap Forms Didn't appear. Data reappeared when redownloaded.

MiniKeePass Didn't appear. Data Reappeared when redownloaded. I'm quite fortunate that the data reappeared, because I forgot to back this up and a lot of passwords are only stored here.

Google Authenticator Ok this app has no actual data, but I think the recommended method is to disable 2FA before you send in/erase your old phone. Re Google: I used to use Exchange to sync Google email and contacts. After changing my password, I spent a while trying to get this to work again, messing with the actual password and generated app-specific passwords, but it didn't work. It turns out, new Exchange connections no longer work, but setting up a Google connection (an account in your iPhone to sync with Google) now supports Contacts.

25 March, 2014

Silhouette Hack 06: QR codes

How can you draw QR codes with a Silhouette? (not create QR codes, assuming you've already got the code)

First, you want to turn on the grid and size the QR code to the grid (hint: the small, solid black squares at the corners are 3x3). It might be easier to set the QR code picture to be slightly transparent - like in the picture below, choose the fill color tool (first icon that looks like a bucket), advanced options at the bottom, then change the transparency. Then, turn on snap to grid and draw rectangles over the black parts of the code. You can also trace the code, but the results won't be as good, especially if you're trying to make the code as small as possible.
Once you've finished, drag the code picture away, select all the rectangles and set their fill to black, which is what I've done in the above picture. The left is the original code. The right is the rectangles filled with black.

Like with writing text, I first tried a cross fill (right drawing), but that didn't work. So I used Internal Offsets. You'll have to play with the offset, depending on the width of your pen and the size of your QR code. At first, my code was too small (top 2 incomplete codes; 2 cm is too small), so I enlarged it, and the bottom code works!

22 March, 2014

A Cheap LED Flashlight

I bought a defective LED flashlight from Kaidomain, because I wanted to use the body as a cache. Kaidomain is quite interesting. They sell a wide variety of flashlights, but they also sell flashlight parts you can pick and choose to assemble your own flashlight. This post is to:
  1. See what parts are needed to build a flashlight
  2. Investigate build quality of cheap flashlights

This is the flashlight. It was larger than I expected. The body holds 3 AAA batteries, and it's 13 cm long. This cost <$5 USD. Some flashlights cost $10, and some cost $100, for the same type of batteries and brightness. What's the difference? This flashlight shows what you get.

This is the front. The lens feels a bit thin and the LED looks a bit small. The LED isn't centred in the reflector, and in fact there's a gap between the LED and the reflector, so some light must leak into the body.

I like that the back both has a hole for a strap, yet is flat and allows the flashlight to stand on its base - one of the things I'm looking for in flashlights.

The anodisation is of poor quality.

The flashlight unscrews into 4 sections.

The rear spring was corroded.

They can't make up their mind whether to anodise the threads or not. Also, the threads squeak terribly and I think this is the only gap that has an O-ring.

I like the hole for the strap at the back, but inside it looks like it's just hammered into the body of the flashlight. I don't think this is waterproof.

This is the LED and electronics. They're held in by the aluminium ring with 2 dimples, which unscrews.

Aluminium ring removed.

 The LED is exposed and has no lens on it. I think the rectangles might be for heat sinks. I tried applying a voltage to the LED and it lit up! Maybe this flashlight isn't defective!

The back of the LED module. Electrical contacts are the centre and side.

This is the switch. The big black block is just a block of plastic to hold the switch in place. To assemble it, you put the switch against the hole in the body, then slide the block behind the switch to fix it in place. Then bend the contacts to hold the block in place.

I fiddled with it a bit and managed to get it working! Unfortunately it's very unreliable and doesn't work most of the time. I don't think there's anything wrong with the parts, just that the connections are no good. Probably the switch contacts - they have to be centred in the body of the flashlight to connect the LED module and battery carrier, and the don't look centred.

Coin Pouches

My wallet doesn't have a place to hold coins, so I searched for a coin pouch. Eventually, I got this from Amazon:
It's made from PVC so it's quite flexible. You squeeze it to open and it closes when you let go. It sounds a bit insecure, but it's quite thick, so I don't have any problems with coins dropping out. Inside, it has a logo saying "Quikoin".
  • Can open with one hand
  • Large area to display coins; makes finding coins faster
  • Secure
  • Fits beside my wallet in my pocket
  • Capacity is just right
  • I don't really like PVC as a material, and this must have lots of plasticiser so it may not be healthy.
  • Sometimes, it doesn't open and bends inwards instead.

But before this, I tried making it out of InstaMorph:
This didn't work, because InstaMorph is too stiff. If you make it thin enough to flex, I think it won't be strong enough.
Anyway, here's the making process:
It's easiest to make a tube, slit it, then weld the ends shut.

I also spent a while trying to cut one out of paper, but these wouldn't even last a week, and they don't open up:
I might have better luck with a design that opens up and slides coins onto the lid, like this product: http://www.amazon.com/TACCO-Italian-Leather-Coin-Purse/dp/B000EN4EUK/ref=pd_sbs_shoe_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KDPZDE3RC5968JSC0HP
After I stopped trying to make one with my Silhouette, I got an idea for a design like the top, Lucky Line one. I might try that if I start again. Or I could even 3D print one, with rigid facets connected by flexible hinges, like this bag: